British designer Paul Smith revisited decades of his creative history at Milan Menswear Fashion Week, presenting a salon-style show that blended archive pieces with contemporary energy. The intimate presentation took place at the brand’s Italian headquarters and was personally hosted by Smith himself.
The event marked only the second time Paul Smith has staged a menswear show in Milan, adding a personal and nostalgic tone to a fashion week already shaped by generational change.
Milan Fashion Week Without Giorgio Armani
This January’s menswear calendar is the first in Milan without Giorgio Armani, who died in September at the age of 91. Although the Armani brand remains on the schedule, the absence of its founder has cast a reflective mood over the city.
Other fashion veterans continue to dominate the runway, including Ralph Lauren, now 86, and Paul Smith, who turns 80 this year.
A Salon Show With Personal Commentary
Smith’s show stood out for its format. Acting as compère, he narrated the collection live, describing inspirations and memories behind individual looks. The presentation echoed the traditional salon shows Smith witnessed in the 1970s at the Paris ateliers of Coco Chanel and Yves Saint Laurent.
“I really wanted to do a salon show,” Smith explained, noting that the independence of his company allows for a level of personal expression rarely seen in today’s corporate fashion landscape.
Archive Meets a New Generation
The collection was shaped in close collaboration with design director Sam Cotton, who has been exploring more than 5,000 designs stored in the Paul Smith archive. Together, they revived and reworked standout pieces from the past.
Among the highlights were a jacket first shown in 1999 and a rust-coloured grandad shirt originally dyed by Smith himself on a gas cooker. Oversized tailoring, vivid prints and bold colour palettes reinforced the brand’s signature aesthetic while appealing to a younger audience.
Still Independent, Still Hands-On
Founded in 1970, the Paul Smith label remains privately owned, with Smith firmly in control. Despite working with a younger design team, he stressed that his involvement has not changed.
“I get there at six every morning. I’m still completely involved,” he said.
Navigating a Slowing Luxury Market
Like many luxury brands, Paul Smith has felt the effects of the post-pandemic slowdown. Company turnover fell 7% in 2024, and Smith acknowledged that the current year may be more challenging.
“Our results this year won’t be very good at all,” he said. “But we’re here, we’re working it out, and we’re going to be fine.”
Ralph Lauren’s Milan Success Story
In contrast, Ralph Lauren continues to enjoy strong momentum. The American brand reported an 11% increase in sales in the first quarter of 2025, driven by renewed enthusiasm for preppy style, a look it has defined for nearly six decades.
Lauren’s Milan show combined the Polo and Purple labels in a presentation that celebrated the brand’s heritage. Although Ralph Lauren did not attend, his son David was present, alongside actors Tom Hiddleston, Colman Domingo and Noah Schnapp.
Milan Appearance Continues in February
Ralph Lauren’s presence in Milan will continue next month, when the brand returns to outfit Team USA for the Winter Olympics, reinforcing its global influence beyond the runway.
Together, the Milan shows from Paul Smith and Ralph Lauren highlighted how fashion’s elder statesmen are using heritage, independence and storytelling to stay relevant in a changing industry.
